Heaps of bilva jostle with mounds of Nandi, dronapushpa, parijata, and red ixora. Litres and litres of bhang (a concoction made out of slightly intoxicating wild leaves, mixed with savouries and water) are consumed.

Colours vie with each other in the fairs on shores and riverbeds, to which thousands of pilgrims flock. For the Smartas, the time has come for the making of holy ash, but for the rest, it is an expression of their desire to join with Shiva.

On Maha Shivaratri, Lord Shiva is Lingodbhavamurti, the pillar of fire that spans all, with no beginning and no end. The devout believe that they are on their way to oneness with Shiva, that they will join with the Supreme after hours of darkness spent in fasting and prayer, after successive "nights of Shiva", after a release from this life, after death. Observed as a fast honouring one of the Holy Trinity of Hindu gods, Shiva's Great Night falls on the 13th day of the month of Magha. The worship of Lingodbhavamurti is with the leaves of the bilva, gathered from quince trees. The lingam is showered, unceasingly, with basketfuls of these, and other flowers, just as Lubdhaka once did.

A day-long fast, a night-long vigil, and the steady, reverberating rhythm of sacred chants mark the four watches, punctuated as they are with special prayers for each (one Jama is of three hours duration). Interspersed with these prayers are recitations from sacred texts, devotional hymns sung in Shiva's praise, and sessions of Katha (story-telling) extolling the greatness of Shiva.

While almost all other festivals are celebrated during the day, Mahashivaratri is celebrated at night, which stands for all that is evil: injustice, ignorance, darkness, sin, violence, treachery, falsehood, and misfortune. Mythology says that Shiva appeared just in time, so that he could save the world from Tamogun (darkness and ignorance) and before the universe entered Kaliyuga, the period of complete darkness, symbolic of Amavasya (new moon). Shivaratri is thus celebrated one night before Amavasya.

Ever since that day, say the Puranas, the story of the tribal Lubdhaka has been recited every year on the night of Mahashivaratri. On this particular occasion, Shiva is offered special food made from the fruits of the season, root vegetables and coconuts, during ritual worship. Having observed the requirements of the all-night fast, devotees eat the prasad offered to Shiva.

The legend surrounding this festival is remarkable. It is said that a poor tribal man, Lubdhaka, a great devotee of Shiva, once went into the deep forests to collect firewood. As the shadows lengthened, he lost his way and could not get back home.

Darkness engulfed the jungle; he could hear the growls of tigers, and was extremely frightened. In the darkness, he blindly climbed up the nearest tree - which happened to be a bel tree - and sought safety and shelter in its branches till dawn.

All night, he could hear wild animals and did not have the courage to leave his refuge. Perched among the branches it was natural that he should doze off, fatigued by the events of the day. In order to stay awake, he plucked one leaf at a time from the tree and dropped it down, chanting the name of Shiva.

By the time the first rays of the sun warmed the earth, he had dropped thousands of leaves on a shiva lingam below, which he hadn't noticed in the darkness. This unconscious all-night worship pleased Shiva, by whose grace the tiger went away and the tribal was rewarded with divine bliss.

Though Maha Shivaratri is celebrated throughout the country, it is particularly popular in Uttar Pradesh. Being one of the most important days of Lord Shiva's worship, regular fasting and worship purifies the soul and also removes tendencies to violence.

Celebrations in various parts of India:

In West Bengal, Shivaratri has become almost a folk festival. Young girls observe a fast and worship Shiva so that he may bless them with good husbands. These days, the night vigil is made easier by organising cinema shows that last till morning.

At the temple of Tarakeshwar, 57 km from Calcutta, bare-footed pilgrims carry containers of Ganga water to pour over the stone image of the Lord and decorate the granite phallus with garlands of flowers, as a mark of their devotion.

In Andhra Pradesh, pilgrims throng the Sri Kalahasteshwara Temple at Kalahasti and the Bharamarambha Malikarjunaswamy Temple at Srisailam. It is a time to invoke Shiva through fasts and chants.

In Rajasthan, a special puja is arranged on this auspicious occasion. A fair is held at Dabeshwarji in Jaipur.

In Assam, the night of Shiva is celebrated by many devotees congregating on Peacock Island, where the Umananda Temple is located.

In Jammu and Kashmir, Shivaratri celebrations last all of 15 days.